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Saturday, September 21, 2024

A Storyteller Unveils Fort Kochi’s Fascinating Historical past


At the very least just a few occasions each month, a supply agent will be seen making his technique to a sure residence in Ernakulam, Kerala. His arms are laden with packages which maintain books –  generally two, generally extra, however by no means much less. 

These should not your bizarre fiction titles. As a substitute, they’re retellings of the historical past and heritage of Kochi. Inside their pages, they maintain fascinating accounts of how the town developed into its current kind, backed by intriguing anecdotes. The content material would go away any historical past buff spellbound. 

Because the supply agent rings the doorbell, he doesn’t want to attend lengthy. A person in his thirties opens the door inside seconds. It’s nearly as if he have been ready impatiently for this second! 

Enthusiasm is etched on Johann Kuruvilla’s face as he tears open the bundle, hungrily eyeing his subsequent reads. 

The books discover their technique to a house library which already boasts over 300 books. “One can by no means have sufficient books round heritage,” smiles Johann. 

For anybody who wish to know what’s in these books — the secrets and techniques of South India and first-hand tales of the lores surrounding Fort Kochi — there are two methods. Both you ask Johann to share his studying record otherwise you attend one of many many experiential walks organised by him and his crew as a part of ‘Kochi Heritage Undertaking’. 

‘Not shy of my heritage.’

Johann's heritage walks across Kochi's bazaars, forts, quaint streets and iconic spots are loved by people of all ages
Johann’s heritage walks throughout Kochi’s bazaars, forts, quaint streets and iconic spots are cherished by folks of all ages, Image supply: Johann

Born into Fort Kochi, a spot that lies on the epicentre of coherence of histories, a love for heritage is in Johann’s blood. It’s astounding how the tales that Johann treats his viewers to right now have been born nearly 520 years in the past when Fort Kochi started witnessing a saga of reigns, every leaving an enduring imprint on its tradition, heritage and gastronomy. 

Via the 5 centuries, this unassuming capital metropolis on the southern coast of India has seen a switch of management. As soon as beneath Indian rule, the town noticed a Portuguese affect in 1503 when the Raja of Kochi granted it to the Portuguese as a fishing village. 

Following a rule of 160 years, the town was conquered by the Dutch who dominated for 112 years earlier than the British established their rule. In 1947, the reign got here full circle, passing into Indian arms once more.

For Johann, who’s deeply in contact along with his Indian roots, watching vacationers amazed on the story of Mattancherry,  a melting pot of customs that was as soon as a bustling website for the spice commerce, or Jew City identified for its sixteenth century Paradesi Synagogue, or the vintage retailers interspersed alongside the sidewalks, is solely amusing. 

Johann is a history buff who undertakes heritage walks to Fort Kochi to explore and unearth its mysteries
Johann is a historical past buff who undertakes heritage walks to Fort Kochi to discover and unearth its mysteries, Image supply: Johann

Their pleasure mirrors his when he first learnt about these iconic spots. Reward him for the in depth information base he has put collectively and Johann is adamant that there’s nonetheless an ideal deal he hasn’t but explored.  

As soon as a gross sales supervisor within the Center East, one would possibly ask what geared him in direction of heritage storytelling. “I needed to journey,” he solutions.  And so, storytelling was born out of serendipity. 

Whereas the journey is the most effective half for a lot of, for Johann it was to return residence to write down about it. The heritage walks have been what fascinated him essentially the most. 

“Why don’t we’ve got one thing like this in Kochi?” he puzzled. 

Whereas this set the stage in Johann’s thoughts for the concept of heritage storytelling, the Kochi Heritage Undertaking would take just a few years to return into the image. The hole was spent making use of to storytelling positions, doing freelance journey initiatives, and conducting just a few heritage walks round South India. 

And it was through the COVID-19 pandemic — and the hours spent studying the books he had been stacking in his residence library — that Johann determined this was it. 

The previous wanted a future. With this motto, the Kochi Heritage Undertaking was born as an Instagram web page in August 2018.

“The concept was to doc Kochi’s historical past — the artwork, tradition, structure, meals, tales of locations and tales of individuals by way of tales that weren’t obtainable on the web. It will take me a month of analysis to provide you with one submit,” Johann brims with nostalgia. 

However when a submit did go up, it will catch eyeballs. 

Right this moment, the Kochi Heritage Undertaking has gone past being a repository with enjoyable historical past tales. It’s a heritage storytelling initiative tailored with over 12 experiences which have one purpose in thoughts — to rework Fort Kochi from being a “random stranger” to a “particular acquaintance”. 

However the place does Johann supply these titbits of unique info from? Books, on-line analysis, conversations with consultants who’ve PhDs in historical past and heritage, analysis papers and first-hand insights, he says.

These are a few of the compelling tales Johann and his crew have unearthed – 

1. The story behind Gujarathi Street 

Also called ‘Little Gujarat’, the world sees near 700 Gujarati households whose ancestors migrated to the Malabar coast way back to the eleventh century and settled right here for commerce. “Additionally it is mentioned that it was a Gujarati sailor who guided Vasco da Gama to Kochiwhen he was expelled from Calicut,” shares Johann. Regardless of the title, the road was residence to many Jains, Baniyas, and Vaishnavas. “The Gujaratis are fluent in each Gujarati and Malayalam and have been grasp retailers in procuring spices and items from the locals,” Johann provides. 

2. The brand new map 

Should you take a better have a look at the map — whose image Johann present in an Indian Categorical article dated 1 November 1956 — you will see it barely totally different from the present-day version.  “This was a brand new map of India, which then had 14 states and 6 centrally-governed territories after including Kerala and Karnataka,” Johann explains. 

3. A flight ticket for Rs 165  

Johann takes particular pleasure in telling this story. The picture exhibits an airline advert that appeared in Kerala Bhushanam Journal in 1952. Whereas many find out about Air India working flights from Kochi’s outdated Willingdon Island Airport, Johann says only a few are conscious in regards to the different airline that additionally ferried passengers. ‘Scindia Line’, often known as and operated as ‘Air Companies of India Ltd’ (ASI), was owned by the delivery firm, Scindia Steam Navigation Firm Ltd. 

The title bears no relation to any current political get together, Johann emphasises. Nonetheless, what’s attention-grabbing about this story, he provides, is that the flight from Kochi to Bombay was 4.5 hours and priced at Rs 165 a ticket. “Think about flying for this value! After all, not taking away from the truth that this was in 1952 when even Rs 100 was a giant deal!” he says.

4. Kochi — “an integral a part of India” 

The picture is of an advert that appeared in The Hindu newspaper on 15 August 1947. It highlights Kochi as the primary state in India to have a accountable authorities and was one of many first states to hitch the Constituent Meeting. “The important allure of Cochin lies neither in her modernity nor in her antiquity however within the harmonious merging of the previous into the current,” it reads. Backing this was Maharaja Kerala Varma Aikya Keralam Thampuran who as soon as said, “No phrase or act of mine shall usher in a day when a Cochinite finds that he has misplaced the appropriate to name himself an Indian…Allow us to stay an integral a part of India, gaining energy from India’s energy and in return giving her all of the energy {that a} homogeneous and powerful unit might give.”

5. The thriller of Saudi in Kochi 

In 2022, the movie ‘Saudi Velakka’ was launched which was lauded with essential acclaim each internationally and nearer to residence. The movie is ready in a Saudi colony in Kochi. However whereas many imagine that the historical past of the world has some connection to Saudi Arabia, this couldn’t be farther from the reality. In truth, it’s a lovely story interlinked by a landmark church, Cochin Jews, and a preferred phrase nonetheless in use. Watch! 

6. Koder Home 

Reconstructed over an early nineteenth-century Portuguese mansion, the Koder Home is believed to have been structured and gabled in Europe and shipped to Kochi. The patriarch, Samuel Koder, ran the Cochin Electrical Firm and he’s credited with bringing electrical energy to the town. Koder was additionally mentioned to be the pioneer of the Freemasons’ organisation in Kochi. The title evokes a way of deja vu amongst many who’ve heard about its well-known Friday Open Homes, the visitor record of which noticed the Raj literati, glitterati, ambassadors, celebrities and heads of state!

7. The Jewish Synagogue 

“The Paradesi Synagogue in Mattancherry’s Jew City was constructed on the land donated by the then Maharaja Kesava Rama Varma in 1568 by the Spanish, Dutch and Portuguese Sephardic Jews who have been expelled from Iberia in 1492. They got here to be often known as the Paradesi Jews in India,” writes Johann. 

In 1662, the Portuguese started railing in opposition to the Paradesi Jews for siding with the Dutch and set the synagogue on fireplace which partially destroyed it. With the assist of the Dutch, the synagogue was restored and there’s an attention-grabbing anecdote of how in 1968, on the synagogue’s quatrocentennial, the then Prime Minister Indira Gandhi attended the celebrations and wished a hearty ‘mazel tov’. Pictured right here is the poster of the Four-hundredth-anniversary celebrations in Mattancherry from this very day 50 years in the past.

This story is very nostalgic for Johann who shares that certainly one of his granduncles referred to as him up sharing how this story had struck a chord with him. “We had as soon as volunteered on the synagogue and have been a part of the occasion,” he had mentioned. 

As Johann comfortably strikes between worlds each previous and current, a dialog with him is nearly like taking a visit again into historical past, again into an easier world, one thing which I can testify to. 

Edited by Padmashree Pande



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