International BirdFair is a rare sight that, up till 2022, we had solely heard tales of. So, Erik and I made a decision we must see it for ourselves. The primary time we skilled it, we flew into Leicester and took the quick drive over. Then, once we selected to return in 2023 to see if there was a distinction between the 2 years, we deliberate to fly out and in of Edinburgh in order that we may discover a brand new place. After we talked about this on our podcast, a number of emails got here in from listeners directing us to look right into a go to to Bass Rock. Once I lastly acquired round to investigating Bass Rock the week earlier than our journey, I spotted why it was on the high of the lists.
Bass Rock, an island nestled within the Firth of Forth, is a testomony to nature’s grandeur and historical past’s resilience. Located on the japanese facet of Scotland, roughly three miles northeast of North Berwick, it’s the closest village from which boat journeys embark. The rock, reaching a top of 350 ft at its peak, is a ‘volcanic plug,’ a solidified remnant of a volcano’s plumbing system that endures lengthy after the volcano has eroded away. The island’s historical past is as fascinating as its geology, having served as a sanctuary, a citadel, a jail, and a lighthouse. It was final acquired in 1706 by Hew Hamilton-Dalrymple. Its attract has captivated and impressed generations. A go to to Bass Rock unveils the Bass Rock Lighthouse in-built 1902, the remnants of an historic chapel, and a symphony of squawking birds.
Birders flock to this haven, as it’s a sanctuary for over 150,000 breeding Northern Gannets, making it the world’s largest colony. Curiously, the Latin binomial for Northern Gannet is Morus bassanus, a reputation derived from their affiliation with the rock. The island is teeming with so many birds that their eggs and younger chicks have been as soon as harvested for meals. The Scottish Seabird Centre affords day by day expeditions to Bass Rock, every with its personal distinctive itinerary. We had the foresight to e-book the Three Islands Seabird Seafari upfront, an exhilarating journey the place we might see the seabirds round Lamb, Craigleith, and Bass Rock from a small inflatable boat. However sadly, we overslept our alarms, which I blame on jetlag. Regardless of a nerve-wracking drive from Edinburgh, we arrived to see the boat pulling out of the harbor with our two seats empty. So, we went into the workplace and have been capable of organize the Seabird Catamaran Cruise for the next day. Thus, we launched into a highland journey, recognizing a Ring Ouzel, earlier than immersing ourselves within the bustling streets of downtown Edinburgh.
The subsequent day, we set further alarm clocks and made it with loads of time to spare. The marina is quaint, with a discovery middle and some outlets. After we arrived, contributors have been lined as much as board the Seafari Explorer. It was a wonderful day to be out on the water, and very quickly, we have been cruising round Craigleith with Atlantic Puffins, Razorbills, Widespread Murres, and Black-legged Kittiwakes. All are at eye stage, because the island is lower than 150 ft excessive. The birds on this island face their very own challenges with Tree Mallow, a non-native plant that has endangered the puffin colony. The Scottish Seabird Centre helps a whole lot of volunteers within the effort to eradicate this species when it was first seen that the variety of puffins was declining.
Our captain then directed the boat in direction of the actual showstopper: Bass Rock. The beehive of Northern Gannets got here into view, and towering cliffs grew to become extra outlined. 1000’s of Northern Gannets have been swirling round within the skies above our catamaran, clearly displaying why Sir David Attenborough declared it “one of many wildlife wonders of the world.” The steep partitions have been dotted with nesting birds and downy chicks about able to fledge.
Whereas researching this journey, there was a standard theme within the articles referring to the gannets: Avian Flu hit this colony onerous in 2022. On a single day, greater than 5,000 useless birds have been counted. Gannets breed after their fourth yr, so it is going to take years to get better from the devastation this illness brought about. An odd facet impact was seen by researchers – black irises. Gannets sometimes have pale blue eyes, and people with black irises have avian flu antibodies. The iris distinction was evident in shut people and, hopefully, an indication that the colony will persist on this illness.
We spent a couple of half-hour circumnavigating the rock and added European Shag, a couple of puffins, and two Nice Black-backed Gulls. The acrid odor of the seabirds’ guano stuffed the air as we toured alongside the steep cliffs. Just a few unfortunate (or fortunate) contributors needed to wipe drops off their shoulders. I loved a detailed have a look at the historic lighthouse and the decrepit chapel, a reminder that our go to is a short second in humankind’s lengthy historical past with this place.
We motored away from the island in direction of the mainland, and the busy gannets grew to become smaller and smaller. The white high of the rock got here into view, painted with the droppings of millennia of feathered residents. I hardly keep in mind the journey again as my head was swirling with visions of gannets flying excessive within the breeze. After a fast chew to eat at a spot up the street from the marina, we jumped within the automobile and headed to International BirdFair.
One thing I really like about birding is the available sharing of knowledge. I can point out someplace we’re occurring our podcast or on-line, and somebody will shortly share their experiences. Hopefully, I can maintain it going and may need helped you on a future journey. This was positively a visit to recollect, and we’ve got others to thank for mentioning it.
Right here extra about this journey on Hannah and Erik Go Birding.
