A long time in the past, if anybody had been to ask veteran Bollywood actress Mumtaz the place she was heading on a scorching summer time afternoon, she’d reply, “The Parsi Dairy Farm, after all”. By the years, her reply hasn’t modified. Right this moment, Mumtaz isn’t the one title on the influential visitor listing. Additionally featured are actors Jim Sarbh and Boman Irani. For a enterprise to be a draw for celebrities in addition to the Ambanis, the Birlas, and the Tatas, they have to be doing one thing proper!
However as anybody will affirm, a menu boasting delicious sweets isn’t the one draw of this dairy enterprise positioned off Mumbai’s Princess Avenue. It’s its century-old attraction and the recipe that has been handed down by the generations — that’s the place the magic lies.
For anybody questioning why the Parsi Dairy Farm has continued to see an unwavering buyer base for over 108 years now, the proof is actually and metaphorically within the pudding. The historical past of the enterprise ties again to when a younger boy of 16 started delivering milk cans to houses round Kalbadevi (an previous neighbourhood in Mumbai).
This wasn’t Nariman Ardeshir’s first alternative of a job. Circumstances led him to it, and ambition paved the way in which to success. Since 1916, when Ardeshir offered his first can of milk, the journey has seen its trajectory of ups interspersed with downs.
However because the fourth era settles down to speak with The Higher India, they are saying challenges are part of any enterprise. What units the Parsi Dairy Farm aside, nevertheless, is its recipe for coping with adversity. The ladies and youngsters have by no means shied away from steering the legacy ahead when required.
Because the cousins snort over childhood anecdotes, tales of taking the lead within the household legacy and nostalgic reminiscences, one factor is obvious — the dairy hasn’t been only a household enterprise, however relatively a liked member that has had its personal seat on the household desk.
Childhood summers and scorching piping jalebis
What began as a small dairy set within the winding bylanes of South Mumbai, that might solely be noticed when you had a eager eye, is now some of the simply discoverable locations. And the credit score goes to the colourful palette that boasts placing pastels and trendy finishes.
The dairy’s metamorphosis from the previous manufacturing unit look to the now spruced-up interiors made waves in September final yr. However as Sarfaraz Irani (39) who heads the gross sales division shares, the household has at all times liked experimenting. “I keep in mind as soon as once we had been children, we had all our relations over to assist us paint one of many storerooms. We wished to make it vibrant. As a household, all of us obtained along with paintbrushes and obtained the entire place to look superb,” he shares.
Evidently, the exercise was a hit then, similar to the revamped interiors are actually. Whereas a number of the siblings cherish these household actions, the others maintain fond reminiscences involving the mithai.
Parvana Mistry (36) who now heads operations at Parsi Dairy Farm remembers hours spent on the karkhana (manufacturing unit) when she was little. Her ears would perk up on the sizzle of the sweets being ready and her eyes would longingly watch the recent piles of sutarfeni (an Indian speciality made with flour roasted in ghee and blended with melted sugar), eagerly awaiting her flip to style.
“Until in the present day once I see jalebis, it takes me again to these days,” she fondly remembers.
In addition to Parvana stood her sibling Zeenia (37) who had eyes just for the chocolate dips and butter cups. Now a model director at Parsi Dairy Farm, Zeenia will get nostalgic as she reminiscences the “completely thrilling” festive days on the store.
Because the day started, the siblings would line up behind the counter, their toes barely touching the ground. Their faces mirrored the anticipation of spending a day catering to prospects, getting the orders proper, counting the money completely and waving the shoppers goodbye (accompanied by a ‘Come once more!’ that that they had been taught by their dad and mom).
The jar full of cash, that jingled when it was moved, meant a profitable day for the siblings. And the mad rush of those events is what the cousins lived for.
Amidst the chaos, somebody would spot a cricket bat mendacity round. Its proprietor and one of many siblings Bakhtyar Irani (41) admits it was at all times his.
“I used to be the cricketer of the household. And most days I’d simply come to the store as a result of there was a kids’s toy retailer subsequent door, and I wished to purchase myself a cricket bat!” Forthcoming about his ardour for sports activities, Bakhtyar, who’s now Managing Director at Parsi Dairy Farm, had one other favorite pastime too — watching the butter churner and the old school pasteuriser on the manufacturing unit.
Talking of previous equipment, Bakhtyar provides that the farm nonetheless homes a number of the historical horse carts and carriages, in addition to a Gerber that was as soon as used to check milk and an previous weighing scale that stood proper behind the primary entrance of the store.
As Parvana shares their love for the final vintage (“We had been tiny and the size was six occasions our measurement. We now have spent hours checking our weight on it”), all of the cousins agree in unison. And it’s evident that although they now head completely different verticals on the model, they’re united by these core reminiscences.
Humble roots, magnificent wings
A century in the past when you walked into the store, you’d spot a younger Ardeshir sitting on his favorite chair and writing on a pocket book that lay on the desk. The household has preserved this furnishings until in the present day and continues to make use of it. “It’s very near our hearts. It’s emotionally linked to us,” shares Zeenia.
Whereas they didn’t get to listen to tales of the enterprise from their great-grandfather himself, the cousins heard quite a lot of these from their grandparents and fogeys. They’ve typically marvelled at how Ardeshir gave this humble enterprise of delivering milk a radical twist and reworked it into an empire.
“Our grandfather misplaced his father when he was simply 4 years previous. He watched his mom wrestle to make ends meet. As she was unable to pay his charges, the college wished to take away him,” Bakhtyar explains.
Within the years to return, to make ends meet, the younger Ardeshir began promoting pens, pencils, books, and stationery exterior the college. When World Struggle I broke out, his lemonade was an instantaneous hit among the many troopers. And that’s how he turned a well-liked lad within the space. However Ardeshir’s first tryst with enterprise got here when shopkeepers in Kalbadevi started requesting him to take a seat at their money counters whereas they went for lunch.
“There have been no CCTVs again then; they wanted a trusted particular person to depend the money,” explains Bakhtyar. Quickly, in 1916, Ardeshir started delivering milk cans to households within the space. “He had just one precept in thoughts: simply promote the purest type of milk. And it turned a success from day one. One can turned two cans, two cans turned 10. There was simply no wanting again.”
The burgeoning demand for milk led to Nariman shopping for stables and the remaining is historical past, say the siblings. However regardless of the celebrity, Ardeshir by no means forgot his roots. Zeenia remembers strolling into the shop in the future and observing a lady praying to the picture of Ardeshir that held on the partitions.
Intrigued, “Why are you praying to him?” she requested.
“Once I was little, I misplaced my dad. My mom couldn’t afford milk anymore. However, when she got here to return the coupons to your great-grandfather, he stated he would provide milk to the household till her kids grew up,” the girl had replied.
A candy formulation for fulfillment
In case you are seeking to cease by the Parsi Dairy Farm, Sarfaraz recommends you strive the kulfis (conventional Indian ice cream). “They at all times ring a bell with me. The cool creamy and mouthwatering style is superb. It melts within the plate and even the basundi (thickened milk) that comes up is simply superb.”
The revamped Parsi dairy Farm additionally boasts a ‘Nice Indian Toffee Wonderland’, which has an array of scrumptious sweets (earlier referred to as milk drops). Rising up these had been Bakhtyar’s favourites and now he enjoys the fudge.
Whereas the household prides themselves on their legacy, they point out their moms who had been founding pillars of it. “They took the reigns at a time when it wasn’t frequent for ladies to work. Our fathers additionally had been extraordinarily supportive of them doing this; encouraging them and serving to them in no matter manner that was attainable,” says Zeenia.
What’s superb about having a legacy like this, says Parvana, is that a lot of the sweets are older than her. “And thoughts you, they’re nonetheless made with the identical recipe as they had been. We make our sweets with the identical quantity of enjoyment, precision, and custom.”
Whereas Sarfaraz factors out that this consistency is what has stored them related even in the present day, the cousins emphasise that the workers who work with them are integral to the success of the household. “Proper from the senior heads of the corporate to the one who sweeps the ground, all people places in absolute effort. That’s what makes us what we’re,” he says.
It appears truthful to say that the Parsi Dairy Farm has been profitable the hearts and palates of town’s residents for over a century. And the love for this legendary enterprise appears to solely develop in leaps and bounds with each passing day — a testomony to the legacy that Ardeshir wished to go away behind.
Edited by Pranita Bhat.
